Monday, 26 June 2017. Cloudy in Nagasaki.
On my first itinerary (when I supposed to travel to Kyushu alone), I supposed to go Kumamoto and took the Orange railway, had dinner while enjoying the best sunset at the western side of Kyushu. But then ciMel decided to join me (and how I was so glad for that!^^)/ …and she wasn’t so sure about going to a shaky land of Kumamoto after a 7RS earthquake hit the prefecture on April last year. So we finally went to Nagasaki. (*/ω＼)
I wasn’t sure when she first suggested the site where the atomic bomb landed 72 years ago. I was like, why should I go to ruins city where seventy-thousand people died? I heard my other friend told me about how sad she was when she visited the ground-zero, and I watched the movie on NatGeo documentary few months ago, I remember the story about the bloody river, people with illness caused by the atomic bomb, sad stories of the survivors, still… how would I enjoy this abandoned city! (ᗒᗣᗕ)՞
And again, how I was SO wrong! Nagasaki was not only a place to learn history lesson, but this beautiful little town has its own beauty, and I believe it deserves more recognition! The town was peaceful, pretty, and with all that sad stories, this town now has touched many hearts! ♡( ◡‿◡ )
*nothing to see here. Just me and ciMel squatting at Yasaka Shrine*
*robo-san at Hakata Train Station couldn’t speak Eigo*
*Nagasaki city’ cover drain*
*tram in Nagasaki, or as the locals called it “streetcar”*
After I bought another bento and ciMel bought her mentaiko croissants for breakfast at Hakata Train Station, we purchased the train ticket to Nagasaki, at the ticketing counter. The tickets consist of base fare ticket, and ticket to Nagasaki itself, and it costs ¥3090 per person, one way. It will be cheaper if we bought two-way ticket, but then we were still not sure what time we finished our exploration in Nagasaki, so we bought one-way ticket instead. The train bound to Nagasaki took us there in two hours.
Around 10AM we arrived at Nagasaki Train Station, we went to information center where we bought the one-day pass ticket, for the tram. Here in Nagasaki, they called tram as ‘StreetCar’. The one-day pass ticket price was ¥500 per person. With this ticket, we only need to show it to the tram driver, hop on and off the tram and we could go anywhere in Nagasaki. The tram runs everyday from 6:10AM to 23:40PM (please check the tramway map below) ((( ￣□)_／
So from the Nagasaki Eki-Mae #27,we took blue line bound to Shokakuji-Shita (genki-1), and stopped at Shianbashi Eki-Mae #34 where I already had appointment with Kimono Hoppen to rent kimono at 10AM. The place located around neighborhood area, on the third floor of a small three-storey building. When we arrived there, it was already 10:40AM, we were greeted by two ladies who already waiting for us and quickly lead us to choose the kimono, one lady helped us with the hairdo, the other one helped us to wear the kimono. ~(˘▽˘)~
Even though we supposed to wear summer yukata, but they let us to wear the casual kimono for ¥5400. The hairdo itself costs ¥1600, was optional. CiMel did the hairdo, and I didn’t. So with my green kimono and ciMel’s blue kimono, off we went to visit some temples. ヽ(≧◡≦)八(o^ ^o)ノ
Just in front of the Kimono Hoppen itself was Taniyama Daiko-Ji, but we walked pass through it. Then we walked pass the second temple, Sofuku-Ji. Because the sky was getting darker, we walked to our first stop which was Yasaka Shrine. It was quiet afternoon and both of us were the only persons wearing kimono that day. We took quite a lot of picture at the Yasaka Shrine. Then we continued to Sofuku-Ji, just around the corner. We didn’t go inside the temple, because we saw quite a lot of stairs to go up and we didn’t have enough energy for that. It was passed 1PM and we haven’t had our lunch yet. (¬_¬”)ԅ(￣ε￣ԅ)
*temples hopping with kimono on at Shianbashi*
*Here we are at The Yasaka Shrin!!e*
*chillin’ at Yasaka Shrine*
*still at Yasaka Shrine*
*in front of Sofuku-Ji red gate*
There wasn’t much restaurants around Shianbashi area. Our kimono wouldn’t allow us to go too far from this area… I mean, why would we go that far while we couldn’t even walk in a normal pace? Garan was the only cafe we saw. At the Garan, we ordered manju (for me), chicken curry (for ciMel) and we shared the salad. The food was nice and worth to try when you’re around the area. ( ’ω’)旦~~
From the cafe, we stopped at Taniyama Daiko-Ji. Again, we didn’t go inside the temple. The cloud was getting darker and darker and started drizzling. We still had few other places we needed to visit. So we walked back to the hoppen and returned the kimono by 1:40PM, and continued to our next stop. ⁽⁽◝( • ω • )◜⁾⁾
*me posed at someone’s house ;”D*
*waiting for our meals at the Garan*
And our next stop was The Oura Catholic Church. To get to this church, from Shianbashi #27, we took tram blue line bound to Akasako (genki-1), and transferred at Tsuki-Machi #31. We changed to green line bound to Ishibashi (genki-5) and stopped to Ouratenshudo-Shita #50 (Please refer to tram map below!) ((( ￣□)_／
Walked pass the Bekko Crafts Museum and former HSBC, we followed the sign and turned to a small alley heading to Oura Church. This small alley reminds me of the alley down to the St.Paul’ Cathedral’s ruin in Macau, where a lot of souvenirs and local cafes around. Have you read my blog about Macau yet? It’s here.👈
The alley to Oura church was a unique place where you could only find western buildings. You would feel like you’re somewhere in Europe, not Japan. Where you’re in Nagasaki, it is recommended to try their Kastela-kun and Manju-chan. There was cheese-kastella shop which was super yummy! The seller offered free sampe and I already took 3 of the samples, but still didn’t buy because the expired date was too short. But I stopped to buy the manju at Iwasaki Hompo (too bad I couldn’t find their website anywhere): This one is highly recommended by me! When you first turned in to the alley, it was on the right-hand side, right after St. Kolbe Avenue street sign. You can spot the manju-chan easily. (☞°ヮ°)☞ ☜(°ヮ°☜)
Entrance fee for this church was ¥600. Paid at the ticketing counter just at the bottom of the stairs to the church, we also took the English version of the information book about the church. For those who are interested to know more about the Oura church, please visit my other blog here 👈 … From the church, I then visited the Saint Kolbe Memorial Museum, just behind the church. For those who are interested to know who Saint Kolbe is, please visit my other blog here.👈
*Oura Church, ticket and the information book in English*
*small alley to Oura Church*
*had my best manju ever!!!!*
We didn’t go to Glover Garden, since we didn’t want to pay extra ¥¥¥. Why would we pay to go to a garden?! So we continued our journey to visit Atomic Bomb Museum. From Ouratenshudo-Shita #50, we took green line bound to Shokakuji-Shita (genki-5), and transfer at Tsuki-Machi #31. From Tsuki-Machi #31, you can take either blue line (genki-1) or black line (genki-2) bound to Akasako and stop at Hamaguchi-Machi #20. It was about 10 minutes walk from Hamaguchi-Machi to the Bomb Museum. ٩(๑･ิᴗ･ิ)۶٩(･ิᴗ･ิ๑)۶
Haru chan was right about the land in Nagasaki wasn’t so flat. Quite a lot of walking ups and downs to our destination, because the tourist attractions are about 500~800m away from the tram station.
Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum located in the same place as Peace Memorial Hall. The Museum entrance fee was ¥200 for adults, and ¥100 for students. And it opens from 8:30AM to 5:30PM. FYI, an atomic bomb exploded in the air above Nagasaki at 11:02AM on August 9, 1945. The most part of Nagasaki was destroyed, and a tremendous number of lives were lost. The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum was opened in April 1996 as part of the 50th anniversary project for the bombing. Around the Museum there were Peace Memorial Hall (in the same building), Peace Park, Hypocenter Park (Ground-Zero) of the atomic bombing and Urakami Cathedral.
After we purchased for the tickets, we entered the museum and it was totally different atmosphere inside! We were greeted by a wall clock which was froze at 11:02AM, exactly the moment when the bomb exploded. It was very sad, very gripping and very creepy in the same time, a mixed feelings I couldn’t explain well. Then I saw the same video I watched from NatGeo. Continued to walk around the museum, I saw the replica of the bomb or what they called it as “Fat Man“. A lot of artefaks, then some sad pictures showing the people who are suffering from the bomb.
Up to the artefaks section, I was still fine. But not long after that, I stopped at one of the poems written by Matsuo Atsuyuki, and my eyes started teary. I can’t imagine the pain the survivor’s must suffer; not only for the physical, but also the hearbreaks they must endured for losing their loved ones. It was just way too miserable. I couldn’t hold my tears anymore when I read about a ten years old Michiko Ogino talked about how her mother died after saving her two years old sister. Then few other sad stories, and I agreed atomic bomb shouldn’t be existed in the first place. In fact, the word “war” shouldn’t be existed in this world! (oT-T)尸
*me taking my own pic inside the tram*
*the clock stopped at 11:02AM! Sad & creepy!!*
We walked out of the museum with puffy eyes, and went straight to the Memorial Hall. However, the hall seemed too boring after we visited the museum. We decided to skip the hall and went to Urakami Cathedral.
Unfortunately, the Cathedral closed at 5PM. It was about 15 minutes walk from the hall. By the time we arrived at the Cathedral it was already 5:40PM. Too bad I couldn’t get inside to get a picture of the isle. I got some good outdoor pictures, you can check them out from my other blog here.👈
From the Cathedral, we walked about 15 minutes to Matsuyama-Machi Station #19. We took blue line tram bound to Shokakuji-Shita (dengki-1), and stopped to Nagasaki Eki-Mae #27.
Arrived back at the train station, we had dinner at a Japanese Restaurant. We don’t remember the restaurant name, but it was restaurant no.5 at AMU Plaza, Nagasaki Station. Then we bought cookies downstairs at the souvenir shops before we boarded the train back to Hakata Station. The train back to Hakata was another ¥3090 per person. It is recommended to always buy from the counter and speak to the staff when you want to buy intercity train, due to there will be base fare and another fare. It was very confusing and somewhat charged us almost double the price when we tried to buy from the ticketing machine. (╯°Д°)╯︵ /(.□ . ＼)
*busy neighborhood on the way to Urakami*
*quiet neighborhood around the Peace Park*
*The New Red Urakami Cathedral*
And that’s it for today! └(＾▽＾)┐
A lot of walks, and a lot of tears today. Other than feeling extremely sorry for the victims of the atomic bomb, I felt so much grateful for not being there as the victims and not having any relatives as the victims. (｡╯3╰｡)
If you interested with the sad stories I captured from the Atomic Bomb Museum, please go to my next post What Happened in Nagasaki on 9 August 1945?, or click here. 👈 But I have to remind you, the stories are very, very, and I mean VERY sad.
But before that, here in Beppu, I would like to suggest you to stay at least one night. There are quite a lot of interesting sites you must visit. Other than temples hopping with kimono on around Shianbashi area, Visit Oura Church and Atomic Bomb Museum, you may want to check a rustic Dejima Museum and Ropeway to Mount Inasa. Check out the Tramway Map below and don’t forget to buy your tram daily pass for cheaper transportation in Nagasaki! And don’t forget to check out ciMel’s blog too. She has interesting stories to tell you here. 👈 (￣▽￣)ノ
*Nagasaki Tramway Map*